Like many, you probably thought that once you bought your early Evo/DSM that it would be the end of money spent on it. Sure, maintenance would have to be done but the car was pretty quick from the off and you surely wouldn’t want it to go quicker. And then you upgrade one part and you can feel the difference it makes. Your mindset then changes to one of “I’ll just get this one upgrade, and then I’ll be happy with the power/handling” and before you realize it, you’ve spent the GDP of a small country on the car.

Since long time, the discussion on using hydrogen is going on. It discharges just the steam into the atmosphere. The disadvantage is that it can be hazardous, in fact, immensely hazardous. The cars that take tanks of hydrogen would not say much in this context. A huge amount of money is being spent to develop techniques that can manufacture impassable tanks to carry hydrogen, once there is hassle free solution, a solution that can be prepared by anyone.

You can now go to the back of the car and free the factory exhaust by removing the hangers from the rubber bushings. Congratulations, your factory exhaust has now been removed. You are one step closer to hearing your car’s new growl.

This problem is especially challenging because most people lack the skills or knowledge to know whether a particular task has been performed. For example, if you instruct your mechanic to swap out your failing fuel pump with a new OEM replacement, will you know whether the pump is new? Or, could your auto technician put in a badly-designed rebuilt without your knowledge? In most vehicles, this component is installed within the gas tank, so it’s difficult to visually inspect the work.

Yes, the stock fuel system is very safe and reliable to 450RWHP, although I would recommend a fuel pulsation damper bypass. Anything over that, and I would highly recommend having the car dyno’d, and using a wide-band O2 sensor (not a cheap A/F gauge connected to the stock O2) to check the fuel ratio at your high boost setting. 11.5:1 would be a safe fuel ratio.

Now find the flange on the scrap catalytic converter price guide. It will have two bolts that you will need to remove. Be careful in this process because your whole exhaust system is only supported by two rear hangers on the muffler. This is where it will be handy to have a helping hand. Have your buddy hold up the front section of the system, otherwise it will crash to the ground.

Boooooooooooost! Yes, we’re almost at the point where we can turn up the boost. But how do you do it? The answer is a boost controller. There are 2 main types of boost controller, a simple manual controller or a more complex electronic boost controller. The former are cheaper and have a strong following in the DSM community, where the Hallman Boost Controller gets some excellent reviews. I opted for the extra features of the Blitz Dual SBC Spec S boost controller and haven’t looked back. Four different boost settings, a boost warning if it gets too high, and very accurate control of your boost has made it a no-brainer for me. The Spec S is also reasonably priced and is currently holding around 1.6bar of boost on my car without any problems.

The last part of the exhaust system is the exhaust pipe. It’s often made from steel products, like stainless steal or even aluminized steel tubing. The exhaust pipe runs from the tail pipe through all the parts mentioned above.